The name ‘Romania’ didn’t refer to Wallachia or Moldavia until 1859, and Transylvania remained part of the Astro-Hungarian empire until 1918. So what is ‘Romania’? It’s a fair question, and one that frequently yields long, philosophical answers when travelling around the country – often without much of a clear answer at the end of it. Romania is a product of many incarnations – sometimes tied with Slavic neighbours, Greece, Turkey, Saxon Germany, the USSR or Hungary. But more often Romanians link their past with the Dacians or (more fashionably, at times) with the century the Romans hung out in the area. As one local said, ‘We’re a mix of both. The Romans mingled with Dacians – they didn’t kill them all off, because the Dacian women were too beautiful.’ Understanding the past is the best way to get a grip on this fascinatingly complex country.
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